LAKE TITICACA - BIRTHPLACE OF LEGENDS
The inland sea of Titicaca
When you first arrive at Puno and see Lake Titicaca, your initial thought is "why is there a sea in the middle of the Andes?" - it is HUGE: about 190km long and an average of 25km wide. With its size, beauty and abundance of natural resources, it's not surprising that Titicaca not only gave rise to important pre-Inca cultures such as the Tiahuanaco, but also came to occupy a central place in Inca creation myths.
The Incas believed that their creator deity, Viracocha, first emerged from Lake Titicaca and they also believed that the sun god sent his children from the lake to Cusco to found the Inca dynasty. In fact, even the lake's name is a hybrid, coming from the Aymara titi (mountain cat) and the Quechua caca (rock). The name arose because people believed they could see the eyes of a mountain cat (an animal which was venerated by mountain-dwellers) in a sacred rock found on the Isla del Sol, on the Bolivian side of the lake.
A holiday visiting Lake Titicaca
Puno and Lake Titicaca today
Today, the people living around Lake Titicaca are still mainly of Aymara origin, and many speak Spanish as a second language. Puno is famous for its traditional handicrafts and music and styles itself as the "Folkloric Capital of Peru" but if you want to see some of the real Aymara culture you must travel out onto Lake Titicaca itself and visit some of the islands.
The floating reed islands of the Uros
Although there are many amazing things to see in the lake, one of the most remarkable sights is that of the floating Uros islands. These are full-sized islands made entirely from the local totora reeds, woven together and constantly being renewed to make floating platforms - some large enough for several hundred people to live on. Not only the islands but the peoples' boats, houses and even schools are made from the reeds. The local children paddle their way to school on their own rafts every morning! Legislation to preserve this unique culture means that the larger islands cannot be visited by tourists but you can travel to some of the smaller Uros islands to experience this unique traditional way of life for yourself. Just be careful where you step!
Taquile and Amantani
Deeper into Lake Titicaca lie the 'real' islands of Taquile and Amantani. If you don't fancy trusting your safety to reeds, perhaps a trip here would be a better idea! Both islands are beautiful and have a rich heritage of both Inca and pre-Inca ruins. Taquile is nearly 6km² in size and lies about 35km out into Lake Titicaca from Puno. About 300 families live on the island and have made it famous for its weaving, which is traditionally conducted only by the women of the island. The inhabitants still live by the three guiding principles of the Incas: Ama Sua (Do not steal), Ama Quella (Do not lie), and Ama Lulla (Do not be lazy). To this day, anyone breaking these ancient rules can be banished from the island as punishment!
Amantani is slightly larger than Taquile, and over three and a half thousand people live there, making it the largest island on Lake Titicaca. It has some important Inca and Tiahuanaco culture ruins and, like Taquile, specialises in the production of hand-woven textiles. The inhabitants of Amantani also produce fine pottery in traditional styles. Most excitingly, for those who really want to see the Real Peru, we can arrange a Real Peru homestay for you to stay overnight on Amantani with a local family and sample some real Andean life.
Puno and around
There is not a great deal to see in Puno itself as it mainly serves as a base for those wishing to explore Lake Titicaca and the surrounding area. The cathedral was completed in 1756 and contains some nice sculptures, and the Dreyer Museum has some interesting pre-Inca ceramics but most of the interesting sights are outside Puno. Nearest of all, at the top of the Huajsapata hill behind the town there is a monument to Manco Capac and a viewing platform which has superb views of the lake - ideal for holiday photographs! Puno is also a great place to shop for alpaca goods, as they are generally of better quality than you find in Cusco, and cheaper than in Lima! Further afield from Puno, a great afternoon can be spent on a visit to the pre-Inca 'chullpas', or funeral monuments, a few kilometres along the shore of Lake Titicaca from Puno at Sillustani. They look like huge stone chimneys, up to 12m high but mummified remains have been found in all of them. Forty-five miles north of Puno you can visit the ruins of a military and religious centre belonging to the Pucara cuture of the fifth century BC. The site is still being excavated but you can already see the remains of a large temple and several burial chambers.
Of course, Puno also serves as an ideal point to extend your journey into Bolivia as Lake Titicaca forms most of the border between Peru and Bolivia. We can arrange for you to cross the lake by catamaran from Puno to Copacabana on the Bolivian side of the lake, visiting the islands of the Sun and Moon, with their famous Inca temples on the way. You can then take a few days to visit La Paz and the surrounding area before returning to Puno, either by catamaran or by coach, to continue your adventures on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca!
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