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Between the arrival of the Spanish and the declaration of Peruvian independence in 1820, Trujillo had a fairly peaceful life. A small problem with (mainly British) pirates in the late seventeenth century was solved by the building of a wall around the town and from then on, the town grew steadily but surely.
Today you can see the evident prosperity of the colonial period in Trujillo's fine colonial architecture. From buildings such as the stunning white cathedral to the art collection of El Carmen, the marbles statues of the Iturregui Palace to the mannerist murals of the Ganoza Chopitea, the Baroque and Rococco architecture is especially impressive because all the buildings, public and private, have been so well-maintained. Of particular interest in Trujillo is the beautiful decorative wrought-ironwork which surounds the windows of the colonial buildings here.
The architecture and art is also interesting in Trujillo in that can see how the citizens have
always had a wider worldview than many other provincial cities in Peru, who have always tended to look to Lima as the fount of culture and style. Much of the art in Trujillo's museums
belongs to the Quito school and the grand houses with their cool, shady courtyards and living rooms remind you not so much of something Peruvian but of the houses you find described in the novels of the
Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
In the twentieth century, Trujillo reinvented itself as the modern industrial capital of Peru and
so, not unlike cities like Milan and Turin, the historic centre is complemented by the sense of energy you get from a vibrant, growing city. With history to burn and a vibrant nightlife (this is
the birthplace of the marinera...) Trujillo is a great place to spend a couple of days, particularly when you consider the nearby attractions...
Trujillo's Great-Grandad: Chan-Chan
Only a ten minute drive from Trujillo lies the mysterious remains of the Chimu city of Chan-Chan. The Chimu culture dominated this
area from the 12th to the fifteenth century when they were finally conquered by the Incas and Chan Chan - all twenty square kilometres
of it - was their capital. At its peak, archaeologists believe that, quite apart from its stunning ceremonial and public buildings, Chan-Chan
probably had a population of around 100,000 people
To put that in perspective, this makes Chan-Chan somewhat larger than London was at the
time - and this was achieved without the use of the wheel! Chan Chan really needs to be seen in the same context as the great ancient cities of Egypt, Mesopotamia or China. Indeed, one reading of Chinese history and Chimu legends suggests that the warrior aristocratic class of the Chimu were descendants of a Chinese exploration fleet. Evidence is far from conclusive but there was certainly something going on in the Moche valley in the twelfth century...
Time, weather and human carelessness have damaged Chan-Chan since it was abandoned in
the 1500s but since it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 it has been adequately protected and much of the ancient city has been restored. The nine original districts were strictly segregated) of the city can still clearly be seen but it's probably best to begin your visit in the Gran Chimu Palace area, which has been painstakingly restored to something
approaching its former grandeur. Also definitely worth seeing is the Huaca del Dragon complex, where some of the original wall friezes have been beautifully preserved.
Enough history? How about Huanchaco beach?
If all this sight-seeing has tired you out then you could probably do with some relaxation time
and the beaches around Trujillo are just the ticket! Huanchaco is the most well-known of the nearby resorts, and with good reason! The name comes from the Mochica for "beautiful lagoon of the golden fish" and although we haven't personally seen any golden fish yet, we'll take the beautiful lagoon bit! Huanchaco is a great fun resort - there's always lots going on, both on and
off the beach and most of Trujillo seems to decamp here whenever they can! One thing to watch out for is the locals 'surfing' in their "caballitos de totora" or "little horses of the sea".
These totora reed canoes-cum-surfboards have been around for centuries and there are always plenty of people willing to give you lessons so why not give it a go?
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